A vibrant, cosmopolitan and viable city, Dublin is the perennial favorite but there are more reasons to come here than ever. The influence of immigrants – from Chinese dumpling restaurants to Polish grocery stores – has added color and variety to an already vibrant culture of Irish food, craft and alcohol. Immerse yourself in James Joyce's "Ulysses" notebooks in the new Museum of Literature Ireland and then relax with a glass of natural wine; buy modern Irish linen and locally roasted espresso; and follow a traditional music session in the early hours with a shakshuka breakfast (a plate of tomatoes and eggs from the Middle East the next morning)t. The Irish art has always been strongly linked to the tragedy and it is worth visiting the historic cemeteries and prisons of Dublin to illuminate what has fueled the often melancholy nature of the country. But it is the sense of local humor – sometimes as dark as it can be – that is what most visitors take away from a visit to the capital.
1) 15:00 Prison exploration
L & # 39; imposing Kilmainham Gaol (€ 8, or about $ 8.85, for the tour, which is the only way to view the site; better book in advance) was a tourist attraction for a surprisingly long time: from 1966, when the prison was reopened after years of restoration by a group of hardworking volunteers. The tour of an hour in the courtyard of the cells and demolishers, where the leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising– an armed uprising against British rule – were executed, demonstrating the grim role the prison played in the history of Ireland. It housed rebels arrested during each revolt against British rule and was a place of detention for detainees awaiting deportation to Australia. The tour ends in an information museum, which details the Easter Rising, War of Independence and Civil War. If some aspects of the prison seem familiar, it could be because the scenes in the films "In The Name Of The Father" and "Michael Collins" were filmed here.
2) 17:00 Smoke and strong whiskey
You can smell the Teeling Whiskey Distillery long before you can see it. The first new distillery to open in Ireland in 125 years, is located in The Liberties, a neighborhood accustomed to the smell of barley and hops, because, in the 19th century, it housed dozens of distilleries and breweries. The Teeling time tour (starting at € 17 per person; includes a tasting) illustrates the long history of Irish whiskey production and guides you through the working distillery, where you can watch the "must" ferment in wood fermenters and distilling whiskey in giant wooden stills. The tour ends in the bar, where the guide guides you through a tasting of single grain whiskey, small lots and single malts.
3) 19:00 Green cocktail
In the green heart of the south side of the city, lively St. Stephen's Green, you'll find students hanging out on lawns, pigeon-feeding tourists, and employees taking a break. Stroll around ponds and flowers, stopping at the northeast corner to see the tribute to Wolfe Tone, an 18th century revolutionary considered the father of Irish republicanism. Notice the stone slabs lined up behind his statue; The Dubliners, who worship nicknamed public monuments, have nicknamed Tonehenge. Stroll along Dawson Street to an aperitif at the Peruke & Periwig, a cozy bar illuminated by the atmosphere. The talkative bartenders assemble some of the best cocktails in the city (about € 13 each) with spicy gin, local whiskey and accessories like apple wood smoke. The cozy second floor, with its velvet chairs, oil paintings and windows overlooking the bustling street, is an excellent place to seize for an hour or two.
4) 9pm New Irish cuisine
Book in advance for dinner at Clanbrassil House, where chef Grainne O’Keefe brings a new approach to old ideas in dishes like Killary Fjord mussels from western Ireland, steeped in a spicy XO broth and smoked trout layered on charred sourdough and seasoned with pickled cabbage. This small restaurant was opened in 2018 and serves some of Dublin's most innovative dishes: homemade sausage with pork cheeks; jam ice cream; and fried potato pancakes with onion mayonnaise. Interesting Eurocentric wines are served by the glass and the family style option, where the kitchen sends a range of small dishes, appetizers, food and desserts, is a fun way to have a snack on the tempting menu. Dinner costs around € 120 for two, including wine.
5) 9:00 am Creative breakfasts
When you can't cope with another Irish potato, take an early brunch (around € 30 for two) at Brother Hubbard South, who has one of the most creative breakfast menus in the city. Flex dishes in the Middle East like a crispy halloumi sandwich with pickle the tomatoes or Turkish eggs with mounted feta are made with ingredients from local producers and the coffee is roasted on the spot. They even make their cola. Despite the rave reviews, it remains unpretentious and welcoming, and the large patio is a popular place for outdoor breakfasts when weather permits.
6) 11.00 Thursday to noon
Leopold Bloom, perhaps the most famous character in Irish literature, pays a visit to Sweny's pharmacy in "Ulysses" by James Joyce, where he buys a bar of "sweet wax" that accompanies him around the city. The same soap is still for sale (€ 5) in this pharmacy, now a small museum full of tchotchke run by volunteers who happily talk about Joyce and hold daily readings and discussion groups about the works of the author. Saturday between 11 and 13 am for reading "Ulysses", to which anyone can enter and have fun, or contribute. The pharmacy (in operation from 1853 to 2009), with its wooden accessories and dusty glances of the bottles, can be imagined, exactly like in the days of Joyce.
7) 12:30 arts and crafts
A few steps from the museum there are two studios that showcase modern Irish workmanship. The Irish sheets by Jennifer Slattery Textiles are embroidered with care and extravagance, with objects like finely woven napkins (€ 78 for four) adorned with a tiny knife and fork. Thin and colorful trays (€ 45 each) of embroidered linen brushed with resin, make fabulous gifts. Next to it, Flock Studio sells toy sheep, mice and other animals, made with Irish wool and merino transformed into handmade felt. A 10 minute walk takes you to Arran Street East, a small corner studio, a bar and a shop that produces its beautifully glazed range of cups, pitchers and plant pots, all in soft primary colors. They also run seminars (starting at € 50), if you want to try your hand at the wheel.
8) 13:30 Fish and espresso
Dublin 7 is home to a growing number of excellent restaurants that are well off the tourist track. Stop on Benburb Street and stand on a high stool Fish Shop, where the catch of the day (sustainably fished) becomes a really excellent fish and chips (lunch for two, around € 40). C & # 39; a selection of natural, organic and biodynamic wines by the glass. Follow your lunch with a "night and day" at your order, a cheerful café with esoteric European roaster beans like Square Mile and Fried Hats. "Night and Day" (€ 4.50) is a couple of shots of espresso, one black and one with milk, which include a sort of mini tasting menu, with enough caffeine to give you energy during the rest of the day.
9) 15:00 The story of a candlestick
The occupying buildings extended around the vast inner courtyard of the former Collins army barracks, the fabulous National Museum of Ireland – Decorative Arts & History (free admission) houses some of Ireland's greatest treasures. Furthermore exhibitions on Irish history, the galleries host expertly curated exhibitions on Irish fashion over the years; a millennium of Irish minting; a large collection of Irish silver and much more. The signs that accompany everything, from the poplin dress of the early 1900s to a wrought iron candelabrum to a straw chair, convey incredible amounts of fascinating details; you will learn more than you expected.
10) 19:00 Dinner and a session
L. Mulligan Grocer, in the increasingly charming Stoneybatter, is the best neighborhood restaurant: locally sourced ingredients, a long and interesting list of local and international craft beers and a list of carefully prepared whiskeys with almost poetic descriptions. The food, from the high-end versions of Scottish eggs featuring pickled onion and Dijon mayonnaise, delicately braised lamb with juicy carrots and a croquette of black pudding and potatoes, does not seem far from home for inspiration. , but the execution and the ingredients are exemplary and have created a faithful base of local fans. After washing your plate of Irish cheeses with a specially mated whiskey, walk to the trad session in The Cobblestone, a crowded pub with live violinists and tough uilleann players every night, where you can sink a Guinness while talented musicians do the their thing.
11) 11:30 am Graves and gravediggers
You can learn a surprising amount of Irish history from a general history tour (€ 13.50) of Glasnevin Cemetery, where most of the Irish politicians, revolutionaries and luminaries are buried, including many who have been imprisoned in Kilmainham. Efficient and well-informed guides take you to the graves of people like revolutionaries Michael Collins and Countess Markievicz, providing an accurate summary of each person's place in history, as well as explaining the complexities of the Irish civil war and what happened after Easter Rises in 1916. After the tour, exit the southwest corner and enter the John Kavanagh pub, colloquially known as The Gravediggers, for a pint in which (apocryphally) the cemetery workers used to cool off during the particularly long vigils.
12) 13:00 Eat and treat
Spend your afternoon having a snack around Eatyard, an open gravel-floor courtyard with food stalls selling everything from the soaked wings to sauces flavored with Irish whiskey to fish and vegan chips (made with a vegetable-based meat substitute) to local cream ice. The space also hosts recreational events such as French fries festivals (complete with passionate debates on the best flavors). Eatyard officially closes in winter, although it often opens for special events. If it's closed, sit next door at Bernard Shaw, a cheerfully ramshackle pub with a tendency to play world music all day, for a hemp beer or an I.P.A. produced by the owners, as well as a good selection of other locally brewed beers and high-end Irish gin.
Dublin is easy to get around, but staying close to the city center will save shoelaces: look for rentals in postcodes D1 and D2. One-bedroom apartments rented via Airbnb cost around $ 120 a night; more in summer and less in winter.
L & # 39; elegant Iveagh Garden Hotel (doubles from € 180) has rooms of various sizes, decorated with green and blue velvet accents and generous bathrooms. The hotel overlooks the lush Iveagh gardens and is within walking distance of many city attractions.
Rooms a The Dean it starts small (the smallest can accommodate one or two, and starts at € 109) and goes up to the size of an attic, with a glass-walled rooftop bar and a restaurant that offers stunning city views. The service is extraordinarily friendly, even for a city famous for its warm greetings.