36 hours in Dublin – The New York Times

A vibrant, cosmopolitan and viable city, Dublin is the perennial favorite but there are more reasons to come here than ever. The influence of immigrants – from Chinese dumpling restaurants to Polish grocery stores – has added color and variety to an already vibrant culture of Irish food, craft and alcohol. Immerse yourself in James Joyce's "Ulysses" notebooks in the new Museum of Literature Ireland and then relax with a glass of natural wine; buy modern Irish linen and locally roasted espresso; and follow a traditional music session in the early hours with a shakshuka breakfast (a plate of tomatoes and eggs from the Middle East the next morning)t. The Irish art has always been strongly linked to the tragedy and it is worth visiting the historic cemeteries and prisons of Dublin to illuminate what has fueled the often melancholy nature of the country. But it is the sense of local humor – sometimes as dark as it can be – that is what most visitors take away from a visit to the capital.

In the green heart of the south side of the city, lively St. Stephen's Green, you'll find students hanging out on lawns, pigeon-feeding tourists, and employees taking a break. Stroll around ponds and flowers, stopping at the northeast corner to see the tribute to Wolfe Tone, an 18th century revolutionary considered the father of Irish republicanism. Notice the stone slabs lined up behind his statue; The Dubliners, who worship nicknamed public monuments, have nicknamed Tonehenge. Stroll along Dawson Street to an aperitif at the Peruke & Periwig, a cozy bar illuminated by the atmosphere. The talkative bartenders assemble some of the best cocktails in the city (about € 13 each) with spicy gin, local whiskey and accessories like apple wood smoke. The cozy second floor, with its velvet chairs, oil paintings and windows overlooking the bustling street, is an excellent place to seize for an hour or two.

Book in advance for dinner at Clanbrassil House, where chef Grainne O’Keefe brings a new approach to old ideas in dishes like Killary Fjord mussels from western Ireland, steeped in a spicy XO broth and smoked trout layered on charred sourdough and seasoned with pickled cabbage. This small restaurant was opened in 2018 and serves some of Dublin's most innovative dishes: homemade sausage with pork cheeks; jam ice cream; and fried potato pancakes with onion mayonnaise. Interesting Eurocentric wines are served by the glass and the family style option, where the kitchen sends a range of small dishes, appetizers, food and desserts, is a fun way to have a snack on the tempting menu. Dinner costs around € 120 for two, including wine.

You can learn a surprising amount of Irish history from a general history tour (€ 13.50) of Glasnevin Cemetery, where most of the Irish politicians, revolutionaries and luminaries are buried, including many who have been imprisoned in Kilmainham. Efficient and well-informed guides take you to the graves of people like revolutionaries Michael Collins and Countess Markievicz, providing an accurate summary of each person's place in history, as well as explaining the complexities of the Irish civil war and what happened after Easter Rises in 1916. After the tour, exit the southwest corner and enter the John Kavanagh pub, colloquially known as The Gravediggers, for a pint in which (apocryphally) the cemetery workers used to cool off during the particularly long vigils.

Spend your afternoon having a snack around Eatyard, an open gravel-floor courtyard with food stalls selling everything from the soaked wings to sauces flavored with Irish whiskey to fish and vegan chips (made with a vegetable-based meat substitute) to local cream ice. The space also hosts recreational events such as French fries festivals (complete with passionate debates on the best flavors). Eatyard officially closes in winter, although it often opens for special events. If it's closed, sit next door at Bernard Shaw, a cheerfully ramshackle pub with a tendency to play world music all day, for a hemp beer or an I.P.A. produced by the owners, as well as a good selection of other locally brewed beers and high-end Irish gin.


Dublin is easy to get around, but staying close to the city center will save shoelaces: look for rentals in postcodes D1 and D2. One-bedroom apartments rented via Airbnb cost around $ 120 a night; more in summer and less in winter.

L & # 39; elegant Iveagh Garden Hotel (doubles from € 180) has rooms of various sizes, decorated with green and blue velvet accents and generous bathrooms. The hotel overlooks the lush Iveagh gardens and is within walking distance of many city attractions.

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